In the far north of Albania lies the Valbona Pass, a historic mountain trail through the spectacular Albanian Alps. The trail starts in the Valbona Valley and ends in the small village of Theth, and is perhaps one of the most beautiful hikes you can do in Albania.
Here is everything you need to know for a successful hike from Valbona to Theth.
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Which Direction Is Best – Valbona to Theth, or Theth to Valbona?
It is best to start in Valbona and walk from there to Theth.
When we planned our hike, we tried to figure out which direction was best. We read everything we could find online (which wasn’t that much!), and some recommended one direction while others suggested the opposite. We ended up starting in Valbona, and we believe we chose the right option.
The landscape on the Valbona side is a bit more spectacular, and it was nice to still have the energy to stop and admire and photograph the surroundings. In addition, the ferry ride is a great introduction to the magical landscape. The best café is also located on the Theth side, with tasty food and beer, and not least great toilets!
If you struggle with a fear of heights (like me), it is at least wise to start in Valbona. It is much more exposed (steep and without vegetation) on the Valbona side, and it is always worse to walk downhill in exposed terrain.
There is a bit more to do in Theth than in Valbona, where there isn’t much else to do besides hiking. For example, you can visit Grunas Waterfall and the Blue Eye of Theth.
This is our subjective opinion, and definitely not a definitive answer.
How to Get to the Valbona–Theth Trail?
You must travel either to Valbona or Theth depending on which direction you plan to hike. But first you need to choose a base. We chose Shkodër, which is a popular starting point. Many hotels in Shkodër offer luggage storage and parking for cars or rental cars.
Tip: Pack only what you need for the hike itself, plus a change of clothes for one or two nights at a hotel or guesthouse and basic toiletries. Remember that you will have to carry everything over the mountain!
From Valbona
First you must take a bus from Shkodër to Koman at the southern end of Komani Lake. On the long, winding lake there are daily ferries from Koman to Fierza. From Fierza you take a bus onwards to Valbona. The ferry company organizes both bus routes in addition to the ferry, and the bus will drive you all the way to your accommodation.
From Theth
If you start in Theth, you need to take a bus there from Shkodër. This bus is also booked through the ferry company. The bus departs from Hotel Rozafa in the center of Shkodër and stops quite close to where the trail begins.
The Ferry Trip from Koman to Fierza
The two-and-a-half-hour ferry trip is an experience in itself. It almost feels like cruising through a long, winding Norwegian fjord, with towering mountains on both sides that take your breath away. It’s a small preview of what awaits you on the hike through the Albanian Alps.
The ferries operating between Koman and Fierza have seen better days and are often packed. The dock in Koman is severely undersized for the amount of traffic there, and a serious traffic jam formed inside the tunnel on the way to the port. We ended up having to walk the last couple of hundred meters. The whole situation felt chaotic and poorly organized, but incredibly enough we were quickly guided to the correct boat once we reached the dock.
Tip: Take the opportunity to visit the toilets at the dock, as the facilities on board were some of the worst I have ever seen. We can also recommend the food stall selling börek – they were amazing.
How Long Does it Take to Hike from Valbona to Theth?
The average hiking time from Valbona to Theth is 5–8 hours.
When we researched the hike beforehand, we came across information saying everything from 2.5 hours to 10 hours. To finish in 2.5 hours you would almost need to be a professional athlete and run most of the route. We spent just under 8 hours. However, we stopped several times to take photos, plus half an hour at a café. If you walk at a normal pace without too many stops, you might manage in about 5–6 hours.
How Far Is it from Valbona to Theth?
The trail from Valbona to Theth is around 15 kilometers.
However, it often ends up being a few extra kilometers depending on where your accommodation is located relative to the starting point. If you are also staying overnight in Theth when you arrive, you must add that distance as well. Therefore it easily becomes around 20 kilometers in total. My step counter ended up at about 38,000 steps! See further down for tips on accommodation in Valbona with a very short distance to the trailhead.
When Is the Best Time to Hike from Valbona to Theth?
Most people hike during the driest months, which are May to October.
High season is July and August, but that is also when it is warmest and by far the busiest. Therefore we recommend the shoulder seasons, either May–June or September–October. The temperature is more comfortable and there are fewer people.
How Many Days Should You Set Aside for the Valbona–Theth Hike?
You need a minimum of 2 days.
One day to travel from Shkodër to Valbona, and one day for the hike itself and the return journey from Theth to Shkodër. We had limited time, so we used two days. But if you have more time available, you can set aside three or more days. Then you will also have time to explore the sights in Theth.
What Is the Trail Like from Valbona to Theth?
The first part of the trail follows a riverbed. Depending on where you stayed overnight, you may have to cross the river. When we hiked in early September the river was completely dry, but earlier in the year there may be water here. Ask at your accommodation for advice on the easiest place to cross.
At the beginning you pass a couple of small farms, some accommodations and cafés. Then the trail quickly climbs upward through a forested area. After one and a half to two hours you reach the last café on the Valbona side of the mountains.
From here the toughest section begins and the vegetation becomes increasingly sparse. Be careful not to slip on loose gravel and stones. And most importantly: turn around often so you can enjoy the view of the valley and the mountains – spectacular is not even enough to describe it. It simply has to be experienced.
When you reach the flag you have arrived at the place where the trail continues down the other side of Valbona Pass. However, if you do not suffer from a fear of heights (like me!), we recommend leaving your backpack and taking the side trail up to the highest point. The view and the feeling of standing there looking out over the mountains are hard to describe in words. Be extra careful when walking down because of loose stones.
On the way down the opposite side the trail is surrounded by dense vegetation, and there isn’t much to see until you reach the first café after just under an hour.
For the next couple of hours the trail winds its way downward well hidden beneath the treetops of massive trees. This section feels almost endless, with aching feet and bodies. After a few hours the landscape opens up a bit more and you can see Theth in the valley below. Eventually the trail turns into a gravel road and you pass several cafés and guesthouses before finally reaching the parking area where the trail ends.
Do I Need a Guide or Map for the Valbona–Theth Hike?
No, you do not need either a map or a guide.
The trail is well marked and easy to follow. However, it is possible to book a guided tour if you wish. You can book tours through both Viator and GetYourGuide.
Can You Camp Along the Theth to Valbona Trail?
Yes, there is possible to set up tents along the route at several spots.
We saw people camping on both sides of the mountain pass.
Who Is the Theth–Valbona Hike Suitable For?
Anyone who is moderately to well trained and enjoys long hikes.
We saw a boy around 10–12 years old and a group of retirees, so it probably has more to do with having the right mindset than being extremely fit.
Where Can I Book Ferry and Bus Tickets for the Trip?
You can book tickets online on the website of Komani Lake Ferry Berisha.
You should only buy tickets from this website, as there are fake tickets being sold elsewhere.
Tips for Where to Stay in Valbona
We stayed at Hotel Margjeka in Valbona, which is perfectly located near where the hiking trail from Valbona to Theth begins. The view from the hotel of the surrounding mountains is simply fantastic. The restaurant at the hotel serves delicious local food and a hearty breakfast that prepares you well for the strenuous hike over Valbona Pass. The staff are happy to help with advice for the hike and will show you where to go to reach the trailhead.
Hotel Margjeka is highly recommended! If you book through the link below we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. In this way you support our blog – thank you very much!
Tips for Hotel in Shkodër
We stayed at Hotel Tradita, an old traditional Albanian house converted into a beautiful boutique hotel. The breakfast here was particularly unique – we wish we had more days just to enjoy it! They also offer luggage storage and car parking for a small fee.
Important Packing Tips for the Valbona–Theth Hike
- Choose a backpack that is comfortable to carry – remember you will have it on your back for many hours.
- Pack as lightly as possible – bring only the essentials. Many hotels in Shkodër offer luggage storage for a small fee.
- Make sure you have good walking shoes. You may also want to bring blister plasters.
- Sandals or flip-flops for the bus rides and the boat trip are useful.
- Bring motion sickness tablets if you easily get car sick. The roads are very winding.
- You should pack some snacks for the hike. There are very few shops in Valbona. (We only saw one that looked closed when we drove past.)
- Remember to bring enough cash. We saw no ATMs in Valbona, and you will need cash for café visits.
An Unforgettable Mountain Hike in the Albanian Alps – from Valbona to Theth
Hopefully we have answered all the questions you might have, but if there is anything else you are wondering about, feel free to use the comment section below and we will try to answer as best we can.
We wish you a wonderful hike over the stunning Valbona Pass!
You might also like to read:
- Best places to visit in Albania
- Travel guide to Durres
- Exploring Berat: A Journey Through Albania’s History
- 10 things you should know before traveling to Albania
- Best things to do in Saranda
- Guide to Albanian beer
- What to eat and drink in Albania
We collaborated with Hotel Margjeka and Hotel Tradita in connection with this article.
